This dish illustrates the fastidious elaboration of spices often employed in Nyonya cooking. Like all curries, it is good if prepared a few hours ahead and left to sit before serving.

1 chicken or 2-3 lb (1-1½ kg) chicken pieces

5 tablespoons oil

2 cups (500 ml) thin coconut milk

Salt to taste

Sugar to taste

1 cup (250 ml) thick coconut milk

Spice Paste

2 tablespoons coriander seed or 1 ½ tablespoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon cumin

1 teaspoon fennel seed or 1 teaspoon anise

1-in (2½-cm) piece of cinnamon stick

2 cloves or ¼ teaspoon ground cloves

10 dried chilies, seeded and soaked in warm water until soft and squeezed dry

1 teaspoon peppercorns or ½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper

½ teaspoon shrimp paste

1 stalk lemongrass, finely sliced

1-in (2½-cm) piece galangal, peeled and coarsely chopped

1-in (2½-cm) piece turmeric root, peeled and coarsely chopped or ½ teaspoon ground turmeric

4 candlenuts, coarsely chopped

3 cloves garlic

10 shallots, sliced

METHOD

Chop the chicken into curry pieces. If using whole spices for the Spice Paste, grind them to a powder in an electric grinder. Add the remaining Spice Paste ingredients and grind to a paste. Heat the oil in a claypot or a saucepan and when it is hot add the Spice Paste and fry until fragrant. Add the chicken pieces and stir until they are coated with the curry mixture. Add the thin coconut milk, salt and sugar, mix well and simmer gently until the chicken is tender. Add the thick coconut milk. Remove the pan from the heat and let it stand for a while before serving.